Seeing them via a river cruise

Picture twinkling lights reflected on the Danube River as you sail into port, steps away from the merriment of a festive Christmas market.

European Christmas markets have been a tradition since the Middle Ages. Market stalls decked in garland and ornaments beckon visitors with a cozy atmosphere and delicious food and drink.

There are thousands of Christmas markets in Europe. Rather than cobbling together an itinerary — and conducting all the research that requires — a river cruise makes planning easy.

I had my first taste of European Christmas markets on Viking’s Danube Christmas Delights, an eight-day river cruise that stops in six places — Budapest, Bratislava, Vienna, Linz, Krems, and Passau — in four countries.

Since the ship mainly traveled at night, I woke up in a new port each day. Adding to the holiday cheer, there was nightly entertainment on board too, from Christmas caroling to a performance by the Vienna Boys’ Choir.

Viking is not the only cruise line that sails the Danube during the festive season. Ama Waterways, Avalon Waterways, and Uniworld, among others, offer similar itineraries and market excursions. 

One trip, many markets

A view of Christkindlmarkt at Vienna’s City Hall on Dec. 14, 2023.

Saliha Simsir Kazak | Anadolu | Getty Images

Later, I explored the Belvedere Market and the pedestrian shopping area near Stephansplatz, which had gorgeous outdoor lights that looked like chandeliers.  

The historic settings of these markets are as much a part of the experience as the decor, food and shopping. Imagine strolling through Vienna’s Schöbrunn Market with the city’s Baroque palace as the backdrop, for example.

The markets are extraordinarily beautiful at night too. However, to avoid crowds, the best time to shop is when the markets first open. The closer your travel dates are to Christmas, the busier the markets will be. And, of course, weekends are more crowded than weekdays.

Markets at each stop

Budapest has several markets on “the Pest” side of the city.

The city’s main market is in Vörösmarty Square. It connects to another market along the city’s “Fashion Street,” which was illuminated with playful lights in the shape of shoes, presents, and umbrellas. There’s another large market at St. Stephen’s Square with a small ice-skating rink.

A Christmas market in Passau, Germany.

Source: Penny Sadler

Christmas markets in Bratislava’s city center started in the 1990s. Nevertheless, they do a great job of creating a fun, traditional atmosphere. I visited two — one in Hviezdoslav Square and another in city’s main square. I noticed a lot of food and drinks, but not as many gifts. However, there were plenty of shops, carolers and street musicians to add to the festive atmosphere.

Passau is a small city in Germany, but its main market has a great mix of food stalls and handmade gifts. I bought an wooden owl carved from the Black Forest.

The stall in Passau where writer Penny Sadler bought a carved wooden owl.

Source: Penny Sadler

I visited two markets in Linz, Austria. One was ideal for families, with games, a little train, and crafts. The other was a gorgeous market in the main square, or Hauptplatz, with stalls spaced to allow plenty of room to linger, each topped with painted landscapes that were like works of art.

Part of the fun of visiting the markets is trying the food and drinks. Sausages, cheese and sweet treats are common, but each markets has local specialties too. Glühwein, a warm spiced red wine, is served everywhere, usually in a commemorative cup that you can keep as a souvenir. 

Shopping tips

The markets carry everything from knitted scarves and carved ornaments to games and cheese boards. There is plenty of Christmas decor too, including nativity sets, angels, Santa Claus figures, and of course, nutcrackers. 

Wooden games for sale at a Christmas market in Vienna. 

Source: Penny Sadler 

Most of the vendors are small “mom and pop” businesses. Many accept credit cards, but it’s a good idea to have some cash on hand too.

A top tip? Bring your own shopping bag or tote for your purchases. And consider packing an extra suitcase if you’re planning to buy a lot.

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