Carven Pre-Fall 2024 Collection | Vogue

“It is not a nostalgic or particular prism of a woman,” said Louise Trotter, when asked how the heritage of Carven informs her approach. “It’s that sense of silhouette and sense of proportion with an ease of today.”

Trotter has shown two runway collections since arriving at Carven. But by the quirk of pre-collection timing, this is the first glimpse of fall that customers can get their hands on—and not just at the Carven boutique or Net-a-Porter but at a wider array of stockists.

If there is a sense of deference to the archive, it is with a light touch. Mainly, Trotter seems most interested in the 1950s column silhouette, which she might expand slightly in a pair of trousers or adjust proportionally through a more contemporary, tonal layering of a tank dress over a t-shirt.

Browsing the lineup, it seemed noteworthy that the first and last looks featured what appeared to be the same ample, softly tailored coat, the former in double-face cashmere, the latter in chocolate wool gabardine. These deftly confirmed what she described as her masculine hand, while establishing that a mannish sensibility can be transposed to feminine silhouettes. See also the double-breasted jacket and turtleneck that give way to a gauzy, slip skirt, which Trotter explained as her ongoing exploration of dressed and undressed. The full-length black dress with straps that unzip—leaving one part to graze the arm if so desired—direct this pursuit into a single, highly desirable piece.

Because so few of us have had the opportunity to interface with the brand, the item descriptions illustrate that fabric tactility is important to Trotter; that a sweatshirt in sheepskin or a technical Prince of Wales trouser go above and beyond basic. Discovering that two recurring (and wearable) shoe designs bear landmark names—Vendome for the squared-off slides and Garnier for the padded slippers—is a nice reminder that the house has always been part of the Parisian constellation of couturiers.

While Trotter is guiding us towards a Carven that feels sophisticated yet within reach, we’re also seeing her own evolution in the realm of streamlined sportswear. “I want to find solutions for her life, as I do for myself,” she said. “It’s instinctive for me. These are pieces that I appreciate and want to wear.” Other women will, too.