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Serenity and excitement coexist in By Malene Birger’s resort collection. Somehow Maja Dixdotter found a way to maintain a sense of equilibrium while enlivening things with shots of ruby red and running wild with toned down animal patterns. A leopard-printed pony hair coat and hero piece has roar factor, but the other looks mostly purr. Among them is a soft ivory knit set with a short flirty skirt. That gem-stone red color is used for a versatile slip skirt and a caftan. A charming midi dress with handmade pom-poms lining either side of the center front closure is more than pretty, it fulfills the designer’s desire “to always have something made by hand going forward.”
The lookbook images are actually photographs taken by Dixdotter from a self-made video. This can be variously read; perhaps the designer is trying to remind us of the big picture or speak to timelessness. Her ideals are closely aligned with make-do-and-mend values associated with past decades. Having worked with seniors as a young woman, Dixdotter says, “I don’t only get inspired by how they dress, it’s also how they live. What I remember most, and what was different between young and old people,” she said, “is that they take more care of their things. They buy something if they need it. If it breaks, they fix it. [That’s] super modern actually, it’s how you have to think now.” Dixdotter’s aim is to turn thought into action: “I feel what I can do to actually make a change is to work differently.” The atelier now makes fewer samples, for example, and for this pre-collection the mood and the garments are light, making them adaptable for varying climates and layering-friendly.
