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Those new to the ingredient might appreciate a quick explainer. Are retinol and retinoid synonyms? Do they have the same efficacy? What’s the benefit of one over the other? To be clear, retinoid is the general term for the group of molecules that react with retinoic acid receptors on the skin to address age spots, texture, and wrinkles. (Retinoic acid is the active form of retinoids that the skin uses for anti-aging and acne-fighting benefits.) “The pure form of retinoic acid can be too harsh on the skin,” explains Green. “To combat potential irritation, scientists developed other forms of retinoids that require additional conversion steps that gradually lead to retinoic acid.” These gentler solutions include retinol, tretinoin, isotretinoin (also known as Accutane), tazarotene, and adapalene. Below, a breakdown of the most common vitamin A forms—along with some general guidance on choosing the best for your skin type—courtesy of Green.
Retinoid: Again, retinoid is the general term, including over-the-counter retinols and prescription-strength retinoids. “Sometimes, retinoid is used to describe Retin-A or tretinoin, which is pure retinoic acid, and requires a prescription by a physician. Other types of retinoids, like tazarotene, also require a prescription. Both retinol and adapalene are available over the counter without a prescription. Retinol and adapalene are gentler than prescription retinoids, making them ideal for dry, sensitive, or mature skin.”
Retinol: Retinol is a milder form of retinoid, and is the most popular ingredient in over-the-counter products, according to Green. “Retinol products typically have various strengths, ranging from 0.25% to 1%. Those with sensitive or dry skin should start at the lowest strength and gradually build up as tolerated. For anyone introducing retinol for the first time in their skin-care routine, the frequency of use should also be gradually built up (i.e., start with 2-3 times per week, then every other day, then every day).”
Tretinoin: “Tretinoin, also known as Retin-A, is a potent topical retinoid available by prescription only. Tretinoin can be irritating or harsh, so it is best to consult a board-certified dermatologist before introducing it into your skin-care routine, especially if you have sensitive skin.”
